Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Notes on Porteño Culture #1


1.      There are trees everywhere. Down nearly every street, there are gobs and gobs of trees. And not just some little snaggly branch trees, but fully grown, gorgeous trees. While the city is more or less dirty in parts, the trees more than make up for that. In addition, they provide shade, which is necessary when you’re walking to and fro.
2.      Los Porteños son delgados. In addition to being thin, they have this inexplicably tiny skeletal structure. Sure, I’m not fat, but even if I lost weight, I could only get so small. Some women have bodies that make them look like young teenagers. I guess that explains why there’s such an obsession with self-image here. Some women look unnaturally thin, with ribs and collarbones jutting out…
3.      Don’t bother doing your hair. Buenos Aires is a place where you just have to let your hair air-dry, so I guess we’re lucky that’s the fashion right now. And I feel bad for you if you have unmanageable hair under air-drying circumstances…In addition to a straightener/blowdryer being more than $50 (so much for just buying them here…) nobody really uses them anyway. And even if you did, in this heat, your hair would be a mess in 5 minutes.
4.      On that note… ¡Hace mucho calor! And it’s super humid too. Really any attempt you make to be attractive is futile. Your hair will be gross, your makeup will sweat off and your clothing will be damp 30 minutes after you leave the house. Bring on the greasy/sweaty-faced pimples, too!
5.      Just like in Europe, water isn’t free at the restaurants. Bring your own, or prepare to pay ~$3-4 (USD) for just a sip. It’s cheaper to get certain foods than it is to get water. But it’s cheap if you buy your own. 1.5L for $1!
6.      Napkins are a strange subject. In most restaurants, they’re little and plastic-y which makes it difficult to actually use them as a napkin…Also, apparently you don’t put your napkin on your lap; rather, you just keep it on the table and wipe as needed.
7.      There really is a chronic shortage of change. The ATMs generally only give $100 peso notes, which is unfortunate because if you don’t have a large enough charge, they won’t (or don’t want to) accept it. And if you don’t pay in exact change, prepare to not get the right change back—either because they think maybe you won’t notice, they don’t have the right change, or because they just don’t give a shit about the $5 they still owe you. Sometimes you won’t even get it unless you bother them to ask “uhh…MI CAMBIO, POR FAVOR!”. And sure 1 peso (~.25 USD) might not seem like a lot, but it adds up just like a coin jar at home does. On a side note, I set a peso coin on the table for a second while I was reading my menu and Tonya noticed that the waiter took it while I was reading. Goddamn sneaky Argentines and your change!!!!!!!
8.      They really do the “mustard trick” here. Hasn’t happened to me, but a Korean student got all his important documents stolen because somebody spilled paint on him and a “nice old lady” came to help him get it off and the accomplice stole his bag. Mustard is the new black. Keep walking and never let anyone help you clean it off.
9.      So because of things like this, you can never get distracted here. If somebody is trying to get your attention, they’re probably trying to get your wallet too. Also, this means nobody trusts anybody. Even if you’re the victim yelling for help, it’s likely nobody will help you because they think you’re just an accomplice trying to get attention. So much for making friends with the natives in haphazard ways…
10.  The keys here are these ancient, romantic things that look like the classic example of a key. The doors are hard to open, though. In the U.S., when the door is opened, it makes some obvious clicking sounds and you can feel it unlocking, whereas here it’s a very subtle movement and you might not notice you’ve opened the door…
11.  The flusher for the toilet is above. Not below. So don’t turn the water pipe handle thinking you’re gonna flush…Not that I did that…
12.  While I’m still learning lunfardo slang (the slang of BA), the vos pronoun form and accent are easy to notice. In Spanish, to refer to “you”, they use the word “tú”—but here, they use “vos”. It still means you, but it’s a different word. The verbs used with vos are conjugated differently (as are commands) so it’s an additional thing I have to pay attention to. Also, the porteños pronounce their ‘y’s and ‘ll’s with a zh sound (like when you say the word rouge). It’s all “che boludo” y “me jzahmo” over here.

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